The Golden Threads of Bengal, also known as Murshidabad Silk, is a part of India’s rich textile heritage. The luxurious texture, beautiful sheen, and intricate designs have made this silk cherished for centuries.
From traditional to modern fashion, Murshidabad Silk continues to attract the arbiters of taste in delicate fabrics.
Are you ready to explore the authentic details of Murshidabad Silk? So, keep reading this blog.
In this blog, we will discuss the following points and learn about this excellent and delicate fabric in detail.
Table of Contents
Let’s get started.
The Golden History of Murshidabad Silk
Presently, Murshidabad is a city in West Bengal. The city’s previous name was Maksudabad. Murshidabad used to be the Capital of West Bengal. The Diwan of Bengal, Nawab Murshid Quli Khan, was shifted to Bengal from Dhaka in 1704. Nawab Murshid Quli Khan renamed Maksudabad to Murshidabad.
Due to the proximity of the Bhagirathi River and the fertile land for mulberry cultivation, the region became a growing hub for silk production.
Murshidabad Silk gained royal patronage during the Mughal era. Later, the British India Company started exporting silk to Europe at a higher price. The admiration for the fabric increased, and silk began to be used as royal attire, diplomatic gifts, and in religious ceremonies.
During British colonial rule, the industry faced decline due to policies favouring Manchester textiles. However, post-independence efforts to promote India’s handloom products gave Bengal’s glorious heritage a fresh breath of hope.
What Spins Murshidabad Silk into a League of Its Own?
Derived from the cocoons of mulberry silkworms and woven in different designs and patterns, the uniqueness of Murshidabad Silk is a result of multiple factors.
Let’s discuss what makes Murshidabad Silk unique.
- Finest Mulberry Silk
Murshidabad silk is made up of the finest mulberry silk produced by the Bombyx mori silkworm. The region of Murshidabad has the best climate and land to ensure high-quality cocoons.
The high-quality cocoons yield durable, smooth, and lustrous threads, which ultimately create the fabled Murshidabad Silk saree.
- Excellent Hand-weaving
Machines do not weave Murshidabad silk; it’s handwoven on wooden looms. The reason behind the hand weaving of silk is the preservation of the natural texture of the fabric. The handwoven silk makes it easier to create intricate designs, such as Jacquard, Jamdani, and Butidar weaves.
- Durable and Lightweight
The delicate fabric of Murshidabad Silk is quite durable. Murshidabad pure silk is very lightweight and is comfortable to wear in all types of weather.
- Natural Dyes
Murshidabad pure silk uses natural dyes. These natural dyes are produced from minerals and plants.
The Artisans Behind the Craft
The weavers are the life of Murshidabad silk. Experienced and skilled artisans weave silk and pass down their legacy through generations. The weavers of Murshidabad are mostly from small villages, and their whole families help them in the silk weaving process.
Challenges are inevitable, and the weavers also face various obstacles. Let’s learn about the challenges of our superior craftsmen.
- Economic Challenges
Due to low income and poverty, many weavers go through immense economic struggle. There is competition in the weaving field, which makes artisans earn low wages.
- Outdated Infrastructure
Artisans struggle due to a lack of modern infrastructure. They have limited access to the market and outdated looms that hamper their growth.
- Lack of Interest
The new generation is showcasing a lack of interest in weaving and moving toward high-paying jobs. So, weaving professionals are limited, and the overload of work is a struggle for them.
How is the Government Supporting the Artisans?
Government is providing schemes including Silk Mark. NGOs and fair trade organizations are also supporting the weavers by helping them get better healthcare, training, wages, and connect with the global market to get fair compensation.
How to Identify Genuine Murshidabad Silk?
There are so many tests you can perform to identify the Murshidabad pure silk saree. Let’s learn about a few tests:-
- The Burn Test
The burn test process showcases the genuineness of the silk. If it’s original, the silk burns slowly and smells like burnt hair. Pure silk always leaves a brittle ash. Meanwhile, synthetic silk melts and smells like plastic.
- Identification through Weaves
Murshidabad silk is handwoven and has minor irregularities. However, a machine-made silk appears uniform.
- Texture & Shine of the Fabric
The original Murshidabad silk is smooth, soft, and has a natural shine. At the same time, synthetic silk is quite glossy.
- Water Test
The absorbing quality of silk is excellent. Synthetic silk never absorbs water.
- Silk Mark Certification
You can get a Silk Mark tag in a Murshidabad pure silk saree, which is not found in synthetic silk.
Murshidabad Silk in Modern Fashion
From royal patronages to modern fashion, Murshidabad silk continues to catch the eyes of women. Prominent Indian designers are utilizing this craftsmanship to continue Bengal’s heritage.
Plazzos, silk kurtas, and other fashion outfits made up of Murshidabad silk are gaining popularity. In the present era of sustainable fashion, Murshidabad silk is the prime choice of every designer and manufacturer.
Preserving the Lustrous Legacy of Golden Threads of Bengal
Preserving Murshidabad silk is essential to continue the heritage of West Bengal. The Government and NGOs are taking initiatives to protect Bengal’s heritage by providing proper training to weavers and offering them subsidies and loans for their silk farms.
Online stores are selling the Murshidabad pure silk saree, which is also making a significant contribution to taking Bengal’s heritage to the next level. So, when we buy a pure Murshidabad silk saree, we don’t just buy a piece of apparel, we encourage our skilled weavers to continue conjuring magic through their looms for future generations to savour.
Conclusion
Murshidabad Silk is a legacy of Bengal, a tradition that needs to be patronised and appreciated so that our daughters and their daughters after them can continue to be admired wearing them. The skilled weavers create the golden threads of West Bengal. This exquisite silk fabric has been admired for generations, and it should continue to be worn further to preserve the glorious past of India.
Sarmistha Mukherjee is the founder of Sarmistha Creations and a Director of Panagance Fashion Private Limited. With a deep-rooted passion for India’s rich textile heritage and a vision to blend tradition with conscious fashion, she has built this startup that celebrates the artistry of handwoven sarees, ethical craftsmanship, and the elegance of timeless drapes. A strong advocate for women-led entrepreneurship and artisan empowerment, Sarmistha works closely with weavers and craftsmen across India, particularly from Bengal, to preserve and promote their legacy. Through her work, she continues to bring the stories of India’s looms to the global stage — one saree at a time.