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In this blog, we will explore the fascinating world of Tussar sarees, delving into the intricate details of where and how they are produced. How this golden-hued fabric is used by artisans to display their age-old art and how fashion designers are giving this traditional weave a modern twist.
For Indian women around the world, a saree is not just a regular piece of clothing; it is a legacy passed down through generations. From daily wear cottons to party wear silks and chiffons, to Tussar, and to Banarasi silks that are an integral part of any Indian wedding – the saree embodies the rich cultural tapestry and timeless elegance of Indian heritage.
Coming to traditional Indian sarees, each region in India has a distinct style and weaving technique that reflects its unique cultural lineage and history. From the intricate Kanjeevarams of Tamil Nadu to the unique style of Ikkat of Odisha to the elegant Tussar (also known as Tassar or Kosa silk) sarees produced in Bihar, Jharkhand, and West Bengal, each saree tells a story of the region’s artisans, traditions, and artistry, making it a cherished symbol of India’s diverse and vibrant textile heritage.
The Journey from The Cocoon
India is the second largest producer of Tussar silk in the world, coming up right behind China. The process of manufacturing tussar sarees is a long and tedious process. It starts with the harvesting of the silk threads. The harvesting of Tussar silk is a meticulous and traditional process that begins with the cultivation of silkworms, specifically of the Antheraea mylitta species, found in Terminalia species, (comprising hundreds of species of large flowering trees) and Shorea robusta ( Sal, Sakhua varieties of trees) native to regions like Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal, Chhattisgarh, and Odisha.
The silkworms spin golden-hued cocoons on the leaves of these trees. Once the cocoons develop naturally, they are carefully harvested before the moth emerges to preserve the silk fibers. The cocoons are then boiled to soften the sericin ( a protein derived from the silkworm), making it easier to unwind the silk threads. The boiling is an important part of the developing process as it softens the cocoon to make the extraction smoother. Skilled artisans reel in the silk by unraveling the cocoons and spinning the fibers into continuous threads.
Traditionally, cocoons are boiled with the larvae still inside, but as an alternative method of sericulture, cocoons are boiled after the larvae leave the cocoons. The Tussar silk produced through this method is called the non-violent silk or Ahimsa silk.
The Tussar silk production is a long and tedious process that includes rearing the worm to stifling and brushing, reeling, silk throwing, and much more until it is ready to reach the end user.
Bhagalpur in Bihar is the largest producer of Tussar silk in India. In fact, Tussar silks produced in this region are popularly called Bhagalpuri silks. Tussar silk is also produced in Malda and (Raghunathpur) in Purulia, West Bengal, and parts of Chattisgarh, and Madhya Pradesh.
Some manufacturers claim that the silk produced in Raghunathpur in Purulia is one of the most superior quality found in the Indian subcontinent.
Weavers and Handlooms
The Tussar silk industry supports thousands of weavers, handloom owners, and artisans in the rural pockets of Bihar, Jharkhand, and West Bengal. Government organizations or self-help groups often employ weavers and artisans to produce Tussar silks.
Bhagalpur’s Tussar silk industry is more than a hundred years old and employs more than 30,000 weavers working on some 25,000 handlooms. The total value of annual trade is around Rs 100 crore, about half of which is generated through exports. However, despite the large-scale production and demand, the Tussar silk production and harvesting industry is still unorganized in the rural parts of India.
In the past, in Banka and Kotoria villages in Bihar, low-income group families used to harvest Tussar silk independently following the traditional process of developing the silk threads. Here women used to practice a unique way of developing the silk by unwinding the raw silk thread on their bare thighs. However, this has become a dwindling trade due to the extremely low wages given to these weavers.
Depending on the weave or region from where the saree is produced, Tussar is segregated into varieties like Kosa silk, Desi silk, or Gicha silk.
A Canvas of Art
Imagine a scene of ‘Krishna Leela’ (Lord Krishna’s playful interaction with Radha and her troupe) or a scene from the Mahabharata hand-painted on your saree. Statement Tussar sarees often flaunt Pattachitra (Odisha) and Madhubani (Bihar) paintings, or Bengal’s signature Kantha stitch, turning the Tussar fabric into a canvas of art and storytelling.
Traditional craftsmen hand-paint or stitch (kantha) these intricate designs, bringing mythological tales and traditional folklore to life with every brushstroke and needlework. Local artisans have been known to use traditional colors, made from natural elements like clay, powdered harital stone (yellow ochre), and Indigo while painting the sarees.
These sarees not only showcase the rich heritage of Indian art but also highlight the remarkable skill and creativity of local artisans. Depending on the quality of the artwork or paintings, a well-made Tussar saree can be any art lover’s dream and a prized possession to grace their wardrobe.
Tussar’s Cultural Relevance
Pure silk is considered auspicious in Indian tradition, and Tussar, with its golden hue and rough texture, takes it a notch up. Raw Tussar silk with a red border is often associated with purity and spirituality, making it a preferred choice for religious ceremonies and festivals. Women wear Tussar sarees during Durga Puja, Diwali, and other religious festivals, where the saree’s rich texture enhances the visual quality of the occasion, fostering a feeling of solidarity among the women wearing it.
The handwoven patterns often depict mythological stories and traditional folklore, connecting the wearer to their heritage. In many regions, gifting a Tussar saree is considered a mark of respect and honor, reflecting its esteemed place in Indian culture. The saree’s blend of durability and beauty ensures it is cherished across generations, maintaining its status as a timeless piece of Indian attire.
Relevance Of Tussar Silk in The Modern Fashion World
Tussar silk, revered for its unique golden sheen, is capturing the fashion scene with its elegant appeal and sustainable allure. Esteemed Indian designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Anavila Misra, and Ritu Kumar have prominently featured Tussar sarees in their collections, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics.
From exquisite embroidery to bold hand paintings, from traditional folklore to modern prints, the Tussar saree is a versatile canvas that showcases the rich heritage of Indian textiles while appealing to modern sensibilities. These designers harness Tussar’s natural texture and durability, creating pieces that are both timeless and fashion-forward.
Moreover, the Tussar saree is no longer restricted by cultural boundaries but has transported its charm and elegance to international fashion platforms, captivating audiences worldwide. This global appreciation not only highlights the universal appeal of Tussar silk but also reinforces its status as a symbol of refined craftsmanship and sustainable luxury.
Sustainability For the Environment Conscious
While silk sarees have a distinctive charm of their own, they are often considered non-eco-friendly due to the cruelty meted out to silkworms during their production. Compared to other varieties of silk, like Muga or Mulberry, Tussar sarees require less intervention, as they are harvested from wild silkworms that feed on trees, reducing the need for intensive commercial farming practices. Furthermore, the advent of Ahimsa silk, also known as peace silk, offers an even more ethical alternative.
Ahimsa silk is produced without harming or killing the silkworms, allowing them to emerge naturally from their cocoons. This method aligns with eco-friendly and cruelty-free principles, making it a preferred choice for environmentally conscious consumers. By opting for Tussar or Ahimsa silk sarees, consumers can enjoy the luxurious feel of silk while supporting sustainable and ethical practices in the textile industry.
Pricing of Tussar Silks
The pricing of Tussar silk sarees depends on several factors starting from the way it is cultivated, the treatment of the textile, surface design paintings, printing, or embroidery, among other things. Basic Tussar sarees, which are relatively simple in design, can start from as low as INR 3,000. However, sarees featuring detailed hand-painting, elaborate embroidery, or traditional motifs such as Pattachitra or Madhubani can range from INR 10,000 to INR 50,000 and even higher.
If the saree is designed and developed in a designer’s studio or is part of a collection, retail prices may go up manifold. Additionally, the inclusion of natural dyes and the use of sustainable, eco-friendly processes can further elevate the cost.
Despite the higher price range for more elaborate pieces, Tussar silk sarees are cherished for their unique beauty, durability, and the rich cultural heritage they represent, making them a valuable investment for any woman who loves traditional sarees.
Tanusree Biswas is a creative writer, ex-journalist, and fashion designer from NIFD Kolkata. Starting young as a fashion journalist she has covered many fashion events representing publications like The Statesman and later The Femina. She has been a fashion and lifestyle contributor in premiere national publications including The Femina and TOI and has profiled many celebrities and important personalities over the years. On an alternative path, she has co-owned an IT start-up with her husband and has successfully navigated the IT space for more than a decade before rekindling her love for writing. Today, she works as a content writer with various top brands, helping them tell their brand story and resonate with their audience. With a Wesleyan University certification under her belt, for creative writing, she enjoys writing fiction and often renders her services as a ghostwriter. Tanusree lives in Kolkata with her family.